I call this the mother of all bead embroidery stitches. It is so versatile and is used in many different aspects of design. It is especially useful as the base of the peyote bezel around a cabochon or large bead.
Knot your thread leaving a short tail. Come up from the bottom of your backing material. Pick up two cylinder beads, push your needle down through the backing in front of the two beads. Bring the thread back up through the backing and pass through both beads. Pick up two more beads and push the needle through the backing in front of the new beads. Bring the thread back up through three beads. You will be joining at least one bead from the first group to the two beads of the second group. Continue around. To join the beginning and end of the first row of cylinder beads, pass the needle through a few of the beads at the beginning of the row.
Circular Peyote Stitch
The circular peyote stitch used to make the beaded bezel around a cabochon or other large-ish bead. It’s a great way to secure something heavy or awkward.
Start with a backstitched base row of beads around the object. You will want it to be an even number of beads to achieve the step-up. After you’ve completed the base row, exit out a bead (doesn’t matter which one), pick up a bead, skip the next bead and pass through the next. Continue around, stepping up when you finish the round.
When you’re working with the same color beads, it’s a little tricky to see where the step up is. You’ll know it’s time to step up when you basically run out of spaces to add new beads and have to needle up to start a next row. The step up diagram should help. Bead “A” is the last bead in the row, you’re about to complete the circle. Pass the needle and thread through bead “B” and up into bead “C”.
This type of edging is a little challenging for some…it was for me. The biggest “ah ha” moment came when I realized the bead holes should be facing up, if they are sideways, it’s wrong.
To begin your beaded edging, start with an arms length of thread. You can pick a thread that matches your suede backing to hide your stitches on the back of your work.
With one bead on your thread, sew down through the top (embroidered piece) and bottom (suede) layer of your work, the tail will be on top of the work. Bring your needle back up through the bead, skipping the backing and the suede layers. Pick up another bead and go back down through your work next to the first bead. Bring the needle and thread back up through the BOTTOM of the bead just added, skipping the backing and suede layers. Continue all the way around. Remember, make sure the hole of the bead is facing up!
When your first and last beads meet, weave the tails in opposite directions through a couple of edging beads to secure and hide the threads.